WHY FEED FODDER AND NOT JUST HAY OR GRAIN?
The logic behind fodder is simple. Think of it as sprouts for your goats. Sprouting fodder is hardly a new concept. But like every venerable process that works, that is tried and true to it's original purpose, fodder is one of those things. Fodder has been used as a primary feed source or a supplemental feed source. It is a multi-species food which helps reduce the cost of purchasing multiple types of grains. Horses, cows, goats, sheep, chickens, donkeys, llamas, rabbits, and many others all eat fodder. A staple for winter feed among dairies, and farms for hundreds of years, and maybe even longer, making it difficult to ignore.
My decision to grow fodder for our Nubian dairy goats, was simple. I wanted to provide green, moist and nutrient dense food for the winter. This became a priority after feeling the impact of the hay shortage of 2018. That winter we fell very short on our hay supply, and found ourselves paying up to $15 per square bale for hay! That lit a fire under my rump to finally launch the fodder making system for our herd. This is by no means a comprehensive post on the subject of fodder, nor describing the evidence of its vast array of benefits. There are numerous, well-written blogs and websites with good information. I will link to them within the content here and also at the bottom of this post.
With the onset of thousands of dairies closing yearly in the U.S. and the world, I am amazed at the unresponsiveness of even considering alternative husbandry methodologies, like growing fodder. A staple among farmers and dairies for thousands of years. It costs less than full grain mixes, perfect when pastures are minimal, and the nutritional punch for the penny, is hard to beat. Australian ranchers during the country's worst drought, had the bleak reality of letting their herds die of hunger. With no pasture and zero grazing, they turned their sights to venture into growing fodder, and saved their herds.
The nutrients available in a dry seed, versus that which is sprouted from the seed when it shoots forth its first signs of life, are 2 wholly different things. One is highly digestible, having bio-available nutrients, moisture rich, and chock full of inherent enzymes. The other is not. The grain is not because it is a closed system, having most of its nutrients bound. Ruminants are designed more for the consumption of fibrous plants, grasses, leaves, tender bark, flowers, fruits, etc. Long-stranded hay is also excellent for the rumen. Grain should never represent a ruminants primary food source. I have read studies by other bloggers on the fallacy of fodder, as compared to grain. Yet when I dug into the blogger's research, I learned it was based on trials done by organizations in the alfalfa industry. Hmmm? Could that be why those results were not so positive for barley fodder as a viable feed source for livestock? Think on that.
"Nearly all of the starch present in the grain is converted to sugar by sprouting, which is better utilized by the rumen than the dry grain is. This reduces acidosis problems, as the rumen's pH stays more stable without the constant input of starch.
Mineral and vitamin levels in hydroponically-sprouted barley are significantly increased over those in grain; in addition, they are absorbed more efficiently due to the lack of enzyme inhibitors in sprouted grains. Sprouts provide a good supply of vitamins A, E, C and B complex. The vitamin content of some seeds can increase by up to 20 times their original value within several days of sprouting." Midwest Organic and Sustainable Education Service
The return on our initial investment of setting up the system, came in many forms. One being my own peace of mind in knowing my goats were getting lush, fresh grass in the middle of winter. Not worrying if the hay I have is not the most superior, as the fodder compensates in value-added nutrition. The other was the savings, of not having to over grain them to make up for the loss of pasture and woodland forage. Then dealing with all the digestive complications that come with too much grain. Because we use the pastoral method, our herd typically has extended field time, and trail time outside of paddocks. However, every winter there is a shortage of this essential food source. But our herd with the fodder, still maintains their weight, and looks fantastic through the winter. Many are not aware that fodder can be made and fed all year long. There are dairies that strictly feed fodder, and nothing else, due its reliable source of nourishment and aids increased milk production.
THE FODDER ESSENTIALS - WHAT WE LEARNED
TIME
The initial set-up of your racks, etc. will be the most time consuming part of your start-up. Once that is done, the rest is a routine, that cycles daily in short increments. We chose to start with a manual system. Only because I was in a hurry to have fodder, and did not have my research completed on pumps, etc. in order to set up a self-watering hydroponic system. The manual system worked fine for us. Having the manual system meant that I invested an extra 10 minutes of time each day to manually water the seeds. The rest of the time invested, would still have to be done even with an electric watering system. Meaning that even with automated hydroponics, you still have to -
- fill trays with new seed
- remove the sprouted fodder from the trays
- clean trays between uses
- empty your water collection tub if your drainage hose does not go into a floor drain or dumps onto soil
- wipe and dry your floors if you keep your fodder rack in your house
- remember to empty your drained water collection tub every 2-3 days
My husband is a builder, so he designed the rack for me. We conceptualized it on paper first. Then he explained to me how he would put it together. I wanted to make sure I was getting the essentials to good fodder, which is drainage, ventilation and lighting, without those factors being compromised by the design. Because he is handy and fast with tools, he built the rack in 4 hours. But any person with carpentry skills can put this together, or even improve on its design. I am sure there are amazing ideas out there, we haven't even thought of. If you don't have those skills, consider a friend who does, help you put it together.
LIGHTING
The first few days of the seeds being irrigated will not require too much light or any light at all. Light exposure is necessary, once the grain has sprouted. Some systems recommend lights for your rack. We opted not to do electrical lighting equipment and just tested the system by putting it in front a southern-facing double wide window, and letting the fodder get exposure to the natural light of the day. This worked fine. The caveat to this set-up is on cloudy days you have little to no sun. On those days I did have to turn on lamps and placed them within close proximity of the fodder rack to keep it growing. Your fodder's growth is determined by the amount of light you provide. The more light you expose the trays to the faster the fodder grows. But it the fodder does require at least 8 hours of night (rest) time. So, it's not 24 hours of light. I do know there are enterprises that do it with constant lighting. How beneficial and true to the fodder's innate nutritional value that is, would be suspect to me.
If you choose to design a system that will be positioned in an area that does not get sufficient light, using lights will be necessary. Thus, the trays we designed in the diagrams will have to be altered to drain only on the edges (like the two bottom trays are), to prevent the multiple drilled-holes throughout the bottom of the trays from dripping water onto lights you put in place.
LOCATION
You don't have to have a special barn, climate-controlled shipping container or a side room for your fodder, unless you prefer that, or if have already planned on doing it commercially. If you have more than 10 goats to feed, then yes you may need more ample space. Our rack was designed to provide fodder for 10 Nubian goats, and to fit perfectly in front of a window in our living room. We opted to keep it in the house and not in the barn or the greenhouse for several reasons. Green house temperatures are difficult to regulate. It's not impossible to grow fodder in them, but a lot of effort will be required in preventing mold due to the inconsistent temperatures and the spikes of heat.
Fodder has been grown in small spaces like a laundry room, a bathroom, a kitchen, and even basements. People grow fodder in small tubs for a few chickens, or in hefty rack systems for 50 to 100+ head of livestock. Many see these huge systems first, and misjudge the process, and the process prohibitive and intimidating. But it doesn't have to be. The system we designed, though a simple manual gig for a small farm, can be fully automated, or even cut back in size for a smaller operation. As I mentioned, if you are perusing fodder as an option for a commercial enterprise, the logistics and design for those needs are different. But growing fodder is a simple process that can be done on smaller scales without complex equipment.
The Simple Fodder Rack Design
RACK CONCEPT AND COST
I did not set out to build the cheapest fodder system on the internet. Like, "Hey I built this for $1.00 and it provides $1000 dollars of feed per year!" NOT! Though I wanted to spend as little as possible, I strove to have a sturdy rack and one that would last for some time. The fodder is very, very heavy. So if you plan to use plastic shelves as a rack, they need to be sturdy, and provide sufficient openings for water drainage, lighting and ventilation to prevent mold. My husband is a remodeling contractor, so we had spare lumber, we already had the gutter from a previous project and a plastic tub on hand for water collection. Our biggest expense were the trays, not because they are expensive, but because it was the largest output of cash we made for this project. We used these types of trays, purchased at Walmart. Our cost was less that $60.00 . If you choose to design a system that will be positioned in an area that does not get sufficient light, using lights will be necessary.
Thus, the trays we designed in the diagrams will have to be altered to drain only on the edges (like the two bottom trays are), to prevent the multiple drilled-holes throughout the bottom of the trays from dripping water onto lights you put in place. Cost is relative to your area, to what is available around you, and what your goals are. Factoring in whether a temporary or permanent set-up. Many people start small as a trial, then once they find they like it, they go bigger and invest in a larger system. After spending a year researching fodder and DIY growing, and practiced sprouting seeds for the goats in small containers for a a few weeks, I was confident this is what I wanted to do. From the onset I preferred a system that was easy, inexpensive and durable. I did not want an overly tall rack system that requires ladders or electrical irrigation for the water to make it to upper trays. Though commercial racks are designed with large production, and that means going vertical as much as possible to maximize use of space. We have a small farmstead, thus our rack was designed for my use and my height.
MORE ESSENTIALS CONTINUED
TEMPERATURE
Fodder grows best in temperatures between 65-75˚F. If it's too hot, or too cold the fodder's growth will be affected. Temps above 75˚F avails your fodder to the potential of mold growth. We are in zone 6. Therefore, the greenhouse is too hot in summer, and very cold in the winter, as was our garage. We have no basement, but if you do have a cellar, that space would work, so long as temperature and lighting is regulated. Having the rack in the house was easiest for me. Remember, the fodder has to be watered every day, a minimum of once every 8 hours. In cold mid west winters, I did not want to struggle with securing water outside, assuring water is at the proper temperature, nor deal with getting wet on bitter cold days. Having the rack in the house, near my kitchen where I could take a few steps from the rack to my counter top to cut it and prepare it, clean and water, was a key factor.
In hotter climates, fans have been used to provide some ventilation, we did not find it necessary in the house, even in Spring, as we maintained proper temperature inside for the fodder to grow. In winter, near a window, our fodder did not suffer any setbacks from being close to a window. But if you put your rack near a fireplace or a wood stove, that would have to be monitored. As higher temperatures will be a cause for mold growth.
IRRIGATION
The soaking process is not irrigation. These are 2 different processes in the fodder-growing. The soaking is discussed in the seed section below. The seeds need to be watered twice a day, at a minimum. I watered every 8 hours. Room temperature water is best. Seeds need to be kept moist, but they cannot sit in water, or mold and bacteria will become problems. Too cold or too hot of water may negatively impact the fodder growth. Your water will have to drain somewhere. Either to a floor drain, onto soil or into a receptacle. We used a tub that collected the water draining to the gutter. The water starts to get a funky smell after 48 hours. It is not offensive. If you can handle goat urine, dirty hay and stinky bucks, this water smell won't be a big deal. But don't let it sit in your house for days at a time. It's not a pleasant smell when you're sitting on your sofa, nor too welcoming for guests when they come in and think you're fermenting beer.
There are people that recommend spraying the grain with a light coating of bleach. I don't feed my goats bleach, why would I spray their fodder with it? Others use a supplement to green it up or add vitamins to it. We found all that unnecessary and just more expense. If you start with clean grain, then you properly clean the tray's in between sprouting, and have good ventilation, regulate your temperature, drain properly, then you will never get mold. If your grain is getting sufficient light, it will be green.We had one problem with a moldy batch of fodder. When we investigated the source, we discovered the drain holes at the bottom of the tray were clogged, from seed matter and gummy water that was compacted in the drain holes. Again, this drives home the matter of clean trays. This incident taught me that cleaning the trays must also include a quick scanning of the drain holes in the trays, to make sure they are not plugged up. The holes do not get plugged up constantly, but a few did periodically need to be cleaned out.
If you choose to design a system that will be positioned in an area that does not get sufficient light, using lights will be necessary. Thus, the trays we designed in the diagrams will have to be altered to drain only on the edges (like the two bottom trays are), to prevent the multiple drilled-holes throughout the bottom of the trays from dripping water onto lights you put in place.
SEED
Feed/food grade grain, that has been cleaned, is preferred. It should be bug free. The seed must be very clean and have a high germination rate. Dirty seed will contribute to mold problems and require a lot of labor of your precious time in cleaning. Low germination rates will decrease the efficiency of the system. Keep in mind, the soaking period is not the irrigation process. These are two different steps. Soaking comes first. Then once the seed is spread out onto the rack, you irrigate daily.
Because your grain must be soaked for at least 12 hours before putting into the sprouting trays, it is in that soaking time that you will know if you have bugs. They will float to the surface. If you are getting dirty seed, request your feed supplier to order you cleaned grain. If you are working with a dirty batch, you will have to wash it thoroughly and debug it before sprouting. Because the bugs have eaten through the kernel, and perforated the seed, you will have dud seeds. They too will float to the top of your soaking container. Those dud seeds should not be in your sprouting trays.
Certain brands of seed/planting grade grains are treated or coated with chemicals or compounds, which are not recommended for use as sprouting seeds. Whatever is sprayed on that seed, goes into your goat's rumen and later into your milk pail or meat. I have read of some that have had success with seed grade grains that were not sprayed or treated. We stuck with feed grade barley seed.
Barley is by far the easiest sprouting seed and one of the most nutrient dense. It stores well, is easy to grow and is the most cost effective of all grains that large producers have experimented with. We chose barley, and had great success with it as well.
Before continuing with the fodder, here's a side note to consider.
Soaking the Barley
Stocking the Rack
When you first start stocking your rack,you should only add 1 tray to the rack per day, until all your rack is full. If you attempt soak, and to seed your trays all at once, then in 6 days you will have all of your fodder grown, and your goats better be read to eat it all. Fodder does not refrigerate well and spoils fast once it has reached it's maximum stage of growth, which is about 3"-4". At this stage it is also declining in nutritional value. If you feed all your fodder at once, then you will have no fodder for 6 days to come, because you used it all at once. This defeats the entire purpose of the system, which is designed to provide you fodder incrementally, at a daily rate. Therefore, you only stack your rack, one tray per day at first. By day six you will have all sections of your rack filled with seeded trays that you are irrigating. Each one is progressively growing at varying rates. And you will only be harvesting one a day as you need them.
At the start of your system, place trays on the lowest shelf of the rack first. Stock the rack with new trays working your way upward on the rack. Later, you will just replenish the trays as you use them. All new seeds placed on freshly cleaned trays will need to be covered. This mimics the seed covered by dark soil, and helps with germination. I opted not to use the lids that the trays came with, as it prevented ventilation and did not provide coverage for any of the sides of the tray. When you cover your newly seeded trays during the initial 2 days on the rack, be sure to use a breathable material, and it should sufficiently overhang on the back and the front of the tray, to minimize as much light as possible. Refer to the image at the top of this post.
Keep in mind that even the covered seeds still need to be watered. Remove cover to water, then replace, and keep covered until you see a nub of a sprout emerging from the seed. Refer to the first image at the top of this post. In that photo you can see one of the newly added trays on the rack with a paper cover.
Here is a quick recap of the process:
- Soak seeds for 12 hours, then strain seeds
- Spread seeds evenly onto clean tray
- Stack tray on rack & cover for 2 days
- Water all trays twice daily, every 6 to 8 hours
- Harvest and cut fodder when green blades reach about 2" - 3" tall
- Scrub clean all trays before reusing
- Remember to wipe and dry your floors if you are storing your rack in the house
Fodder Growth
Preparing Fodder For Serving
Resources:
Excellent article by MOSES on the process, and details about the nutritional benefits, and the output for feeding by daily weight and ration for livestock. https://mosesorganic.org/farming/farming-topics/livestock/sprouted-barley-fodder-a-revolution-in-animal-feed/
Oregon State University shares their interview of a local dairy farm's experience in feeding fodder. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/fodder-forage-fact-folly-fable-or-fabulous
Peak Prosperity designed another small farmstead fodder system, with a small investment. Great process images to refer to. https://www.littlehouseliving.com/meaning-of-fodder.html
Set-up a small farm, this site has good info on their step by step process with excellent photos of the germination process, at Little House Living. https://www.littlehouseliving.com/meaning-of-fodder.html
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